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- Slow release fertilizer assures your plants feeding every time you water. This is ideal for small collections.
- Misting your newly acquired plants helps reduce shock when moving them to a new environment.
- A freshly sharpened pencil inserted into the potting media is a good indicator of the moisture of the pot.
- Never use "soft water" on your orchids. The salts will eventually kill your plants.
- Good air movement with all orchids is essential to good growth.
Little Known Answers to Really Big Questions
Q: My Phalaenopsis won't flower.
A: When the plant is through blooming, the spike may be cut off above the 4th or 5th node and, perhaps, a new spike will develop with additional flowers. However, this sets back the normal growth cycle and may effect next year's development. For new spikes, cut off the old spike and then subject the plant to two weeks of fall night temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees.
Q: My cymbidium won't flower.
A: Cymbidiums need maximum light to bloom. When they have been repotted, they may not bloom in the next season.
Q: When do I repot?
A: Repotting is normally done after flowering. Up-potting to the next size pot rather than dividing the plant offers a great opportunity for a future spectacular plant with multiple flowers.
Q: Do I need a greenhouse?
A: The majority of home grown orchids are grown indoors or outdoors in sheltered areas. Many extensive collections are not in greenhouses. You may also consider keeping your orchids at our greenhouse for a monthly fee. Please ask a sales person for details regarding our popular "room & Board" program.